My friend Phil’, bright auburn hair, freckles and green eyes, invited me to go camping in the Lake District, revelling in the sunshine and space. In my early teens this form of activity had never come my way. I’d been fell walking and even climbing with my school but camping no. It tells you a lot about me as a teenager because blithely, unthinking, I said, “yes please that would be good fun.”
Phil’, short for Phillipa, organized everything. We caught a red, single decker Ribble bus that wound its way through ‘hill and vale’, to paraphrase Wordsworth, quite apt don’t you think? The bright red livery contrasting against the surrounding greens eventually arriving at a small camp site in an isolated valley near Buttermere. All, around were steep fells, spotted with sheep and a few red and yellow dots, which denoted the anoraks of climbers, and huge craggy outcrops, blankets of glistening scree and birds circling; it was utterly silent, lonely, dramatic and lovely under a kingfisher sky.
I had read all of Arthur Ransom’s Swallows and Amazons books and if I gave any thought about my coming experience at all I suppose it was in that vein, summer fun, Cumberland sausage and beans cooked over an open fire.
Phil’, was an experienced camper and barely had we registered at the site shop and found our pitch than the tent, ropes, poles, tent pegs and ground sheet, not all in one piece in those days, emerged Tardis like from her ruck sack and were spread out on the ground. She indicated that I should match up the sections of tent poles yellow dots to yellow dots, red dots to red dots. I follow instructions well when things are explained and having no idea how to erect a tent and having never undertaken this task before she didn’t seem dissatisfied with my efforts. We were surrounded by a varied assortment of size, design and style of tents but ours was by far the tiniest red tent on site and it rose triumphant. George and Nancy – Swallows and Amazons again – would have approved.
Tea was sausage rolls and beans cooked on a small primus gas stove, also extracted from her Mary Poppins bag. We also ate a bag of crisps, each with the little blue paper twist of salt, and drank a huge bottle of ginger beer. Sitting on the grass in the early evening sunlight we watched the climbers coming down the fells back to their tents and presumably to their equivalent of sausage rolls and beans. As the sun began to set a cool breeze sprang up, the branches of the trees that encircled the site began to sway and the rustle of the leaves gently broke the silence. Dark clouds were drifting and banking up into a dramatic sky. Inside some of the tents lights came on, which created a rainbow patchwork of light and shade. Phil’ suggested we brush our teeth and get ready for bed. It was eight thirty, which from my perspective was a tad early but I just followed, like a lamb, to the shower block and braving a mist of midges undertook my ablutions in cold water.
Back at our tent in the fading light we traced, on a map, our walk, one of Wainwright’s to Rannerdale Knotts, planned for the next morning. We had no light, not even a torch, and the darkening sky was now ominous with clouds. Phil’ said “it’s going to rain.” Barely had the words left her lips when a trident of lightening sliced the sky coming to earth on Fleetwith Pike. We counted, waiting for the coming thunder, which rent the air followed by a prolonged tumbling, grumbling growl, which sounded across the valley. The brewing storm wasn’t close but a light drizzle now misted down upon us. We retreated into the tent and peered out of the rolled back tent flaps. Some of our fellow campers were rushing about gathering their possessions, rescuing boots left out to dry. We laughed as they yanked towels and socks from makeshift washing lines sending clothes pegs pinging off in all directions. Others, in their anoraks, were braving the gathering darkness and rain and some late arrivals were erecting their tent on the pitch next to ours. They were very organized they even had a toilet tent. They had driven up from Yorkshire, Mum and Dad, a boy and two girls who peeped into our tent and gave us a wave, we waved back.
The light from their tent shone through the thin walls of ours, and Phil and I sat snuggled in our sleeping bags and devoured a bag of jelly babies. More lightening and the thunder and following more quickly, the storm was getting closer and the sound of the rain on the canvas grew heavier; we wouldn’t have to wash our tea dishes. In the rosy glow provided by our neighbours we chatted about going back to school, a boy Phil’ liked, Gidget and James Darren, and all the time the rain getting heavier and heavier.
Phil’ kept reminding me never to touch the walls of the tent “if you do the rain will pour in and we will get soaked.” It was obviously playing on her mind and the more she mentioned it the more I got concerned and pulled my sleeping bag more tightly around me. Midsentence Phil’ fell asleep. I wasn’t sleepy at all and lay there, the ground was hard and lumpy, my sleeping bag was padded but felt tissue thin, I tried to ease my position being extra careful not to touch the tent walls. Our neighbours put their light out, clearly preparing for sleep, and I lay there in the gloom alone with my thoughts, the only sound the rain. The darkness, the unyielding earth and the proximity of nature was unnerving. Eventually I too must have drifted off to sleep but I had a rude awakening when the storm, now directly overhead, displayed its worst, the lightening and thunder filling the night with sound and fury and continued their ghastly duet for some long time. The jagged flashes, almost constant, filling the tent like a demented neon light made more nightmarish by the red canvas.
In the neighbouring tent one of the children let out a piercing shriek of fear and her parents hurried to reassure her and her siblings now also crying in fear or sympathy. Phil slept through it all and as the tempest finally moved away I listened to the sweet blandishments of the parents comforting their children. Their accent was my own and I found the sound of their voices reassuring but eventually it reminded me of my sister and her family recently migrated to Australia, ‘£10 Poms’, Ref. 1. and I realised again how I missed them. In that Lakeland valley Australia was the ends of the earth I might never see them again and I lay in a foetal huddle feeling lonely, sobbing my heart out, trying not to make a sound in case I woke Phil’. The continuing drumming of the rain was a melancholy accompaniment to my sorrow.
I must have slept again but once more I woke but this time it was a call of nature. The ginger beer had circumnavigated its course and exacerbated by the sound of constant running water I was pressed to go to the toilet. The toilet block was barely 20 yards from our tent but it might as well have been a hundred, with Phil’s words ‘don’t touch the tent walls’ ringing in my ears I didn’t know how in the darkness I could exit the tent without doing just that. And it was still raining. There was no more sleep for me, I sat in a growing agony of need desperately hoping the rain would stop. The jet-black night slowly turned to charcoal and then to silver grey and still it rained. Finally, I could bear it no more and in the half-light I shuffled to the tent flap with what exquisite care did I undo the ribbons that closed the gap and gingerly eased it back and with what stealth did I squeeze myself through that narrow slit. My thoughts fixed only on relieving my need and totally concentrating on not letting the rain in the tent I wasn’t aware that the rain had finally stopped.
Safely, finally extricated, I lifted my gaze to see my way but my physical need was forgotten in an instant as I took in the spectacular panorama of the mist cloaked fells and crags. It was breath-taking and as the first rays of the dawn pierced through the silver clouds, which drifted over the valley, the fabulous chiaroscuro left me in awe. I was the only one who saw this ethereal glorious sight, I felt this extravagant beauty, was all for me.
Ref. 1. The assisted Migration Scheme
I hope you enjoyed my memory, thanks for giving your precious time to read it.
‘A writer is a writer not because she or he writes well and easily, because of their amazing talent, or because everything they do is golden. A writer is a writer because, even when there is no hope, even when nothing we do shows any sign of promise, we keep writing anyway.”
Junot Diaz Professor of writing, Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for fiction 2008
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Novels by Angela H. Moor
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